|
"Divided
Twins" – Russian poet Yevgeny Yevtushenko describing Alaska
and Siberia.
"At
the dawn of the 21st century, Alaska and the Russian
Far east can join hands across the Bering Sea to build on our long
history together, cooperate in ventures that can benefit the economies,
environment and peoples of both regions." –
Alaska Governor Tony Knowles
Alaska
and Russia are a mere snowball’s throw away. On a clear day, you
can see from here to there, from today to tomorrow – and
you can even walk!
At their closest
Alaska and Russia are 2.5 miles apart – the distance between Little
Diomede Island, Alaska, and Big Diomede Island, Russia. The two
islands straddle the U.S.-Russian maritime border in the middle
of the Bering Strait. In mid-winter, when the Bering Strait freezes,
it is possible to walk between the two islands – from American
to Russia, from today to tomorrow, or from Russia to the United
States, from today to yesterday. It is even possible to stand
on the frozen Bering Strait, with one foot in America and one
foot in Russia, straddling the frontiers of distant boundaries
and time travel. But don’t try it. You can be taken into custody
by border guards. And the frozen Bering Strait can have huge ice
ridges as well as open holes of water (polynyas). 55 miles separate
the Alaska and Russian mainland at the point where Alaska’s Seward
Peninsula and Russia’s Chukotka Peninsula reach out toward each
other. Alaskan and Russian Eskimos travel by walrus skin boat
between the Alaska villages on St. Lawrence Island and the Chukotka
villages near Provideniya. The prevailing theory is that America
was first peopled by a land migration across the Bering Strait
more than 10,000 years ago, when sea levels dropped in the last
ice age leaving a wide swath of land – Beringia or the Bering
Land Bridge – connecting the Asia and American continents. The
Bering Strait has long served as a lure for those seeking to pursue
geographic, travel, cultural and even political adventures that
span one of the world’s most out-of-the-way boundaries. People
have tried to cross the Bering Strait – and some have succeeded
– by walking, swimming, wind-surfing, hot air balloon, skiing,
dog sled, kayak and even, unbelievably, by driving (and failing).
Gennady Gerasimov, Gorbachev’s spokesman, in one of his many visits
to Alaska, once stood on Little Diomede Island in the middle of
the Bering Strait, and with great emotion, remarked on being able
to stand on American soil and see the Motherland. The 150 residents
of Little Diomede Island, Alaskan Eskimos and American citizens,
live on a slope that faces west, which means that from their homes,
they cannot see Alaska and the United States, but on a clear day,
they can see Big Diomede Island and the Russian mainland.
The
Political Divide – The Ice Curtain melts
In this neck
of the tundra, we call it the Ice Curtain. During the Cold War
era, people routinely referred to the "Iron Curtain"
as the barrier between East and West, dividing the U.S. and the
U.S.S.R., separating and isolating the Soviet bloc in its own
sphere. While Washington and Moscow faced off across the Atlantic,
Alaskans and Russians eyed each other across the Bering Strait,
the Bering Sea and the North Pacific. And while politicians focused
on dismantling the Berlin Wall and taking down the Iron Curtain,
the focus among many in Alaska and the Russian Far East was to
melt the Ice Curtain. In World War II, when the U.S. and Russia
were allied, Alaska served as the jumping off point for war planes
heading to help fight the Nazis on the eastern front. The so-called
Alaska-Siberia Lend-Lease Program delivered thousands of aircraft
through Alaska and Siberia to the war front. Now, 60 years later,
the Alaska-Siberia Research Center plans monuments to this effort.
Researchers have turned up evidence that the Washington was just
as willing to close the Bering Strait border as Moscow in a kind
of U.S.-Russian consensus in 1948 to cut off travel, which involved
primarily Native peoples, at the Cold War created the Ice Curtain
divide. Many people seem surprised and even incredulous to learn
that the United States and Russia share a common border. No direct
border crossing exists nor is any permitted. Travelers must leave
one country and enter the other at established points of entry
in Alaska and the Russian Far East. Ever since the Ice Curtain
began to melt in the last few years of the Soviet era under Gorbachev’s
policy of glasnost, every Alaska governor and state administration,
regardless of political affiliation, has sought to develop normal
cross-border cooperation and establish political ties. Alaska
governors, state officials and legislators have almost certainly
made more trips to Russia than their counterparts from other states
and have also hosted many delegations from the Russian Far East.
The only American and only Russian citizens who may travel back
and forth across the U.S.-Russian Bering Strait border without
visas are the permanent Native residents of the Bering Strait
region. Eligible residents must have a special stamp or insert
in their passports.
Alaska
– Russian History, Heritage & Traditions
Russian explorers
were the first Europeans to set foot in Alaska, controlling Alaska
as a trading colony for the czar, until 1867, when the United
States purchased Alaska from Russia for $7.2 million, 2 cents
per acre. The deal arranged by U.S. Secretary of State William
Seward was ridiculed by many as "Seward’s Folly" and
Alaska was dubbed "Seward’s Icebox." Today in Alaska,
you can buy replicas of the 1867 purchase agreement and the $7.2
million check (written in 1868, apparently of a cash flow problem
in Washington). Alaska oil production can generate more revenue
to the public and private sector in a single day than the entire
purchase price of Alaska. Alaska celebrates two official state
holidays – both marking the 1867 purchase. The last Monday in
March recognizes the March 30, 1867 treaty signing. October 18
marks the anniversary of the formal transfer of Alaska from Russia
to the United States, when the Russian flag came down in the Russian-American
capital Sitka and the American flag went up – a ceremony re-enacted
every year on this holiday. State offices and banks close on these
holidays. Russians brought Russian Orthodoxy to Alaska, and in
many Native communities, that remains the faith. The Alaska diocese
is unique among Eastern Orthodox Churches in American to adhere
to the old Julian calendar and, along with the Moscow-based church,
celebrate Christmas on Jan. 7. Russian place names are common
throughout Alaska. Even the name "Alaska" comes from
the name the Russians heard the Aleuts use to call the land. Many
Aleut people have Russian surnames as a result of intermarriage
in colonial times. Some Alaska Native languages adopted Russian
words into their languages. Russian churches, many of them restored
or rebuilt, still stand in places where Russians settled, including
the Russian administrative buildings in the former capital Sitka.
Alaska
– Russian Cultural Ties
The Siberian
Yupik Eskimos of Alaska and Russia are ethnic kin who speak the
same language, Siberian Yupik. More than just ethnic kin, there
are Siberian Yupik families with relatives on both sides of the
border. Many Alaska Siberian Yupiks can trace their ancestry back
to Russia. Siberian Yupiks live in Alaska primarily on St. Lawrence
Island in the towns of Gambell and Savoonga and in other western
Alaska coastal communities. Russia’s Siberian Yupiks live on the
Chukotka Peninsula, primarily in Sireniki and New Chaplino and
other towns. The only Aleuts in the world live in the United States
and Russia along the arc of the Aleutian archipelago stretching
from Russia’s Kamchatka Peninsula and Komandorsky Islands to Alaska’s
Aleutian Islands, Kodiak Island, the Alaska Peninsula and parts
of southern coastal Alaska. Only in recent years have Alaskan
and Russian Aleuts restored contacts and begun to embark on cooperation
projects. Alaska has a half dozen communities of Old Believers,
an offshoot of Russian Orthodoxy that appears to be right out
of 19th century Russia. Alaska’s Old Believers took
a circuitous route to Alaska, often through China or South America
or elsewhere on the West Coast, before finding a climate and conditions
similar to what they or their ancestors left behind in Siberia
and the isolation and freedom to live as they like.
Russian
– Alaska Trade
The Russian
czar started trade with Alaska in the mid-18th century
and commissioned the Russian America Company in 1799 as the exclusive
trading agent. In colonial days, trade was based on furs, chiefly
sea otter and fur seal pelts, and some of this commerce was based
on forced labor imposed by the Russian traders on the Aleuts.
Companies exist today in Alaska that can trade their roots back
to the Russian America Co. Early trade with Russia was trade in
the literal sense. Barter has long figured into Alaska commerce
with Russia. And in a remarkable feat of ingenuity and practicality,
Alaska even found a way to develop a unique form of Russian commerce
in the late Soviet period. When Russians began traveling from
Chukotka to Nome in the late 1980s, they had no "hard currency"
and the ruble then, as now, was not convertible on international
currency markets outside the country. So in order to accommodate
the Russians, some entrepreneurial Nome businesses agreed to accept
Russian rubles on a 1=1 basis with the dollar. Then, in order
to recoup their losses by accepting what amounted to useless rubles,
the participating Nome businesses would sell their rubles to American
tourists who might not ever get any closer to Russian soil than
Nome. Nome business taking part in this novel transaction would
post signs in their windows in Russian stating their willingness
to accept rubles. Many, but not all, managed to sell the rubles
to willing buyers and restore their earnings. Alaska-Russian trade
has caught up with the times and much of it involves resource
development. Companies involve in arctic and sub-arctic development
in Alaska, such as oil production and mining, are particularly
interested working in similar areas of the Russian Far East. Although
Alaska prides itself on its home-grown northern culture and crafts,
steeped in Native Alaskan traditions, there is a strong Russian
flavor to much of the souvenir and crafts trade in Alaska cities
frequented by tourists. Anchorage has a half dozen Russian crafts
stores and many more also sell Russian souvenirs and items evoking
the Alaska-Russian ties. Even smaller towns like Sitka, Seward
and Juneau have businesses specializing in Russian goods. And
Nome even has a Chukotka-Alaska Trading Co. Every year, Alaska
holds a conference, symposium and presentations on doing business
in the Russian Far East.
Russian
Students Get the Alaska Treatment
Russian students
from throughout the Russian Far East study at the University of
Alaska – for reduced tuition, paying the same rate charged to
Alaska residents. University of Alaska policy allows residents
of Alaska sister cities and sister regions to pay resident tuition
rates to attend the university. It is unlikely that many of these
Russian Far East students would be able to attend university in
Alaska without this special break. Alaska has sister relations
with a dozen Russian Far East cities and regions. It is believed
that Alaska has more Russian students at its university campuses
than any college in the United States. The University of Alaska
has an American Russian Center based in Anchorage with branch
campuses in a half dozen Russian Far East locations to provide
basic business courses aimed at creating a capitalist class of
entrepreneurs with practical business skills. A branch of the
University of Alaska that specializes in training workers for
the oil and gas and mining industries, the Mining and Petroleum
Training Service, has trained hundreds of Russian oil field workers
in Alaska and, with help from USAID, the Alaska private sector
and the Russian Academy of Sciences, has launched the Sakhalin
Alaska College technical training school in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk.
Alaska high schools, which have Russian studies and exchange programs,
stage a Russian academic Olympiad every year.
Technical
Assistance & Humanitarian Aid
Alaska has
been the biggest single source of humanitarian aid flowing into
the Russian Far East, particularly during recent hard winters
marked by power outages and shortages. Grassroots campaigns by
citizen groups, charities, churches, governments, businesses and
many individuals have been behind the goodwill efforts. The U.S.
Agency for International Development (USAID) and similar benefactors
have provided support for Alaska government agencies, organizations
and businesses to reinforce the burgeoning democratic institutions
and market economy built up in the Russian Far East through technical
assistance from Alaska.
An
Alaska – Russia Miscellany
Cities and
towns in Alaska and the Russian Far East are closer to each other
than they are to their own national capitals. Russia governed
Alaska as a colony for almost as long as the United States has
now governed Alaska as a possession, territory and state. Alaska
serves as the exclusive U.S. gateway for flights between the Russian
Far East and the United States. Every summer, Bering Strait and
Bering Sea adventure cruises stop at ports in Alaska and the Russian
Far East. Alaska has translated its state constitution, government
documents and key laws into Russian to share with Russian Far
East regions, governments and dumas (legislatures). Among the
historical artifacts in the State Capitol and the Governor’s House
are samovars, portraits of the Russian czar and other items that
evoke the Russian heritage. Much of the flora and fauna and geology
in Alaska are similar to the Russian Far East and eastern Siberia.
Scientists do joint volcano research since Alaska and Kamchatka
form the northern arc of the so-called Ring of Fire. Alaska and
Russia conduct cooperative research and management of species
such as polar bears, walrus and whales. Exhibits in museums of
Alaska, Siberia and the Russian Far East often bear great similarities.
Hotlines connect Alaska and the Russian Far East. There has been
a direct link for emergency air traffic communications ever since
the Soviets shot down of Korean Airlines Flight #007 in Russian
air space en route from Anchorage to Seoul in 1983. Alaska-based
air traffic controllers share communications links with their
counterparts on Russia’s east coast. After 1986 Chernobyl nuclear
disaster in Ukraine, communications were established between the
Alaska Dept. of Environmental Conservation and the Russian nuclear
power station across the Bering Strait in Bilibino, Chukotka.
The State
of Alaska maintains a full-time staff position for dealing with
Russian trade and Alaska-Russian Far East affairs.
|